The richest of pleasures
The term church crawling was coined by poet John Betjeman, who described it as “the richest of pleasures.” His reasoning was simple. Church crawling leads you into the quietest parts of the countryside and introduces you to the history of England through stone, wood and glass. In his view, that history often feels “truer than what you read in books.”
Betjeman also pointed out that much of the enjoyment comes from not knowing what you’ll find. One church might be carefully maintained and well used, while the next smells musty and almost forgotten. Some are striking at first glance; others take time for the full picture to sink in. Yet every single one offers something, if you’re prepared to look. It’s hard to argue with this. At the end of each day our faces ached from an excess of awe and wonder, and the whole visit felt like a school history field trip – only this time, we had actually paid attention and willingly soaked it all up.
Kempley & Hampnett
Tools for the trip
One of the best aspects of church crawling is how little you need. Betjeman recommended just two “instruments”: an OS map—“no other will do”—and an eye for detail rather than formal knowledge. We followed that advice but also took along a copy of England’s 1000 Best Churches by Simon Jenkins. What’s particularly pleasing is that this weighty tome came into my possession via the phone box library in Petersfield and a generous Rural Strider, who spotted it and kindly thought of me. Despite having a plan, we also quickly found that flexibility matters more. Some of the best stops were the ones we hadn’t originally intended to make.
Three days, fourteen churches
Over the three days, we visited 14 churches. Each differed in character, scale, setting and period, which made them almost impossible to compare. Instead, we found ourselves building a broader picture as we went, joining the dots and gradually expanding our understanding. Distance added another layer to the experience. As we drove, the look and feel of the buildings shifted with the local geology. This was particularly noticeable on the second day when we crossed the invisible line between the Cotswolds and Welsh Marches. Within a few miles, the honey-coloured limestone gave way to deep red sandstone and freshly tilled red soil.
From top left clockwise: Stow, Fairford, Swinbrook & Oddington
However, it also wasn’t all churches. Given the Edward Thomas connection, we popped into Adlestrop for the obligatory photograph with the sign and a reading of the poem. We also visited Stow-on-the-Wold, where the church door is framed by two beautiful ancient yews, like something out of Lord of the Rings, and found the graves of the Mitford family too. Like the Downs, the Cotswolds are also scattered with sacred relics from the Neolithic and Bronze Ages, but we had to leave those for another trip.
Capturing and being captivated
The architect John Ninian Comper said that a church should bring you to your knees when you first enter it. While we didn’t quite drop to our knees in prayer, there was no shortage of contortions. At various points I was flat on my back, camera in hand, trying to take in the full sweep of a painted ceiling, while others climbed impossibly narrow staircases and craned their necks in search of the right angle. There were vocal efforts too. Acoustics were tested with a mix of half-remembered hymns and confidently delivered lines from the Bible. None of it was planned; it simply felt right for the space and the moment. Best of all, we rarely saw another soul (fortunate, given the singing!). Aside from Stow, there were no coach loads, no crowds — just space and quiet. Remarkable for the Cotwolds.
Highnam, Kempley & Oddington
Choosing a favourite
At the end of each day, we tried to pick a favourite, and again at the end of the trip. It proved difficult. The churches were too varied for simple comparison. What makes one “better” than another – scale, setting, craftsmanship, atmosphere? Each place was distinct. In the end, the question felt less important than the experience itself.
Overall, church crawling encourages you to slow down and look more closely. It gives structure to a day without overplanning it. Most importantly, it rewards curiosity. You don’t need three days or 150 miles. Simply start with a map, pick a handful of churches, and let the places speak for themselves. As you can see from the photos, they have plenty to say. Which is your favourite?
Eastleach Turville, Painswick & Deerhurst font
NB – there is rarely a charge to visit a church, but please consider leaving a donation. This ensures the survival of these incredible buildings for future generations.
TRIP ITINERARY
DAY 1
1. St John the Baptist, Ingelsham – besides the Thames with William Morris connection.
2. St Mary, Fairford – incredible windows & carved misericords (use torch for closer look). Cafes
3. The Eastleaches (Martin & Turville) – twin churches across a chalk stream with clapper bridge.
4. St Mary’s, Swinbrook – graves of many Mitfords/Mosleys.
5. Adelstrop – for the sign from the old station/connection to Edward Thomas.
6. St Nicholas, Oddington – ancient woodland setting with Doom mural.
7. St Edwards, Stow-in-the-Wold – twin yews around its north door.
Stayed: Sedgeberrow (best onion bhaji’s ever tasted at Shukur at the Queen’s Head!)
Hampnett window, Fairford misericord, Duntisbourne Rouse
DAY 2
1. Abbey of St Mary, Tewksbury.
2. St Mary, Deerhurst – a building that’s “a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma”.
3. St Mary, Kempley – the most complete set of Romanesque wall paintings in England.
4. Holy Innocents, Highnam (by arrangement) – incredibly vivid Victorian stencilling.
Stayed: The Judges Lodgings, Gloucester (great location & apartment)
Elkstone
DAY 3
1. St Mary’s Painswick – the churchyard yews (99 of them to be precise) and tombs.
2. St John, Elkstone –a “feast of zigzag” with columbarium in chancel roof.
3. Elkstone Studios – great place for lunch (and for charging EVs).
4. St George, Hampnett – eye-catching combination of Victorian wall paintings, in the style of medieval ones, inside a 12th century church.
5. St Michael, Duntisbourne Rouse – isolated hillside chapel with crypt.
Other places to visit:
The village of Bibury, Cirencester, Crickley Hill (for the view), Belas Knapp Long Barrow, the Kingsmen/Rollright Stones.
Main Image: Ingelsham
